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     Tips from the Experienced Club Members on Improving Skills and Gear Preparation

     Spread the knowledge. Submit a tip to be posted on this page to the webmaster.
     Please state "Archery Tip" in the subject line of the email.

     You may want to question bow hunting tips submitted by John Deer, Buck Rogers, or Jane Doe. Their advice is known to be extremely unreliable!!!
Fire your release with your arms, not your fingers 2-11-12
(tip from Shawn Dixon but spoken by Bobby Flores)

     When shooting with a trigger style release place your finger against the trigger, aim and then pull your arm backwards to engage the release. This helps in keeping the sight on target.

     I've found that I am able to maintain the steadiest shot on target by not locking my forward elbow and firing by pushing the bow forward into the target with the forward arm while pulling back at the same time. This actions limits the drift of my pin on the target.

Get good information on archery shooting and equipment 1-21-14
(tip from Corey Haas)

archery tips bowhunting tips is a nonprofit website on archery and bowhunting. The website has information, how to's, and tips on the following:
            - The Basics of archery
            - History of archery
            - Parts of a bow
            - Finding draw length
            - Adjusting draw weight and length
            - Using a bow press
            - Tying archery knots
            - Proper archery form

            - Selecting archery and bowhunting equipment
            - Adding archery accessories
            - Compound bow tuning
            - Timing a bow
            - Yoke tuning a bow
            - Paper tuning a bow
            - Walk back tuning a bow
            - Adjusting a bow sight

            - Manufacturer's bow specs
            - Hunting tips
            - Product reviews
            - Forum

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Shooting uphill or downhill 2-11-12
(tip from Shawn Dixon but spoken by Bobby Flores)

      When your target is at a different elevation then you, do not drop or raise your arms. Pivot at the waste to shoot uphill or downhill with accuracy.

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How to shoot a compond bow 3-6-11
(Most of this content was copied from the Archery Gold site)

      Shooting a compound bow is different from shooting a recurve or longbow especially in one aspect, and that is the holding weight at full draw. A compound bow has what is called Let-Off which means that the holding weight decrease dramatically at full draw. Typically the let off lays in the range of 65-80%, i.e. the holding weight for a 60# bow with 65% Let-Off only has 60 X 0.35 = 21 lbs holding weight! Yet there are several similarities in the shooting technique among all types of bows. The principle of backtension is the same for all types of bows.

      Stance: Place an arrow on the ground pointing directly at the target. That arrow is your shooting line. Stand on the shooting line with one foot in front of the shooting-line and the other behind the line. Your feet should be shoulder width apart and you should just try to stand firm and yet relaxed with equal weight on both feet. Keep your legs straight but not unnecessary rigid. You might put the foot behind the line a little bit forward and you will then maintain what is referred to as an open stance. How many degrees the open stance should have is individual.An open stance might give better clearance between the bow string and your arm. Many archers also feel more stable when an open stance is used. The open stance is preferred by some elite archers because it gives them a better feeling of stability when shooting in the wind. It's important to use the same stance every shot, so some markers on the ground or some tape on the floor can be used. There is nothing wrong with a square stance, i.e. stand with your feet in line with the target as long as you don't encounter clearance problems. Many archers use an arm guard for protection for contact with the bow string as you'll see in pictures below.

               Square Stance                              Open Stance

      Prepare for the shot: Nock the arrow. This means place the arrow on the bow. Ensure the Nock clicks onto the arrow. Most archers shooting compond bows use a release. This is a device that attaches to the string or a loop attached to the string as seen in the pictures below. Other archers prefer finger tabs which attach to the fingers placing leather protection between the fingers and the string for comfort. Attach the release to the string under the nocking point, or to the loop if you have one.

      Set the hand in the grip. The pressure point should be on the thick part of the thumb muscle, the force from the bow should go straight into your bow arm. You should be able to have your bow hand wrist perfectly relaxed without any tendencies to twist in any direction. Your bow hand fingers must not grip the bow; use a bow sling or a finger sling to catch it at release.

               Bow Hand                              Pressure Point

      When the bow is drawn back it will be suspended between the pressure of the front arm and the release or fingers attached to the string. do not grasp the bow. The bow will rest between the thumb and index finger. The remaining fingers be relaxed in a curled fashion along the side of the bow.

      Lift the bow and draw arm. Point the bow roughly at the target. Your bow arm shoulder should have a natural position. Don't rotate it up or back, just lift the bow arm and let the shoulder find its natural position.

      Draw the string: In one smooth motion draw the string to your anchor. Use your back muscles as much as you can when you draw the string. Your draw length should be determined with help from an experienced archer or coach, and a good line should be sought after. That's the arrow and the draw under arm should be in line seen from behind.

      Anchor: The anchor point is an individual preference. While keeping your head up straight, try to get the string to your nose tip. This gives you a reference point to keep your head in the same position every shot. Many archers add a device to their bow string referred to as a "kisser button". The kisser button will be installed onto the bow string where it will contact the corner or your mouth when at full draw. This provides an easy reference to maintin a consistant anchor point.

      Aim: A "peep sight" is typically added into the bow string. An experienced archer or coach should help you align the peep sight so that if you keep your head facing straight ahead, then draw the bow, then turn your head toward the target your eye will be aligned properly with the peep sight. Your brain will automatically try to focus in the middle of the target. Don't worry if you aren't perfectly still. This will improve with practice. The key to attain a calm sight-image is relaxation. It's impossible to hold the bow still with a high tension in the draw arm. Remember that it is your muscles on your back that have to be used to hold the string. Check your vertical alignment.

      Release: Fire your release in a very gentle manner, a feeling of a surprising release is desired. A very successful method to accomplish this is to apply some more backtension with the draw arm shoulder blade and use that force to fire the release. There are some releases that are designed with backtension in mind and they don't have any regular trigger. Never "punch" your release, this will almost always result in undesired movement in the shot moment. Punching the release is the most common mistake amongst compound archers.

      Follow through: At release, keep your focus on the target and if you have the right pressure against the target your bow arm will be still in the release moment and then move right forward. If your bow arm drops in the release moment there is a risk that it does so before the arrow leaves the rest and thereby influence the arrow. If this is the case, increase the pressure against the target. If you are using your back muscles as you should, the draw hand will move backwards at release.

Repetition of this shooting process will hone your skills over time. Good luck!

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Bowhunting Tips, Tricks & Techniques by Terry Whitford 2/15/08

      Broadhead Tuning

      It is imperative that the draw length is correct for you. 90% of all bowhunters have a draw length of 29 inches or shorter!

I always tune my bows while wearing a cotton jersey glove on my bow hand. I always hunt with a glove on my bow hand so that’s the way I tune my bow. The cotton glove is a fantastic method to eliminate excessive hand torque and makes it much easier for you to repeat the same hand placement on the bow. The first thing to do is to make sure:

      1. all arrows are straight (within .001) With the new generation of carbon arrows that most bowhunters now use there is no way to straighten the shaft. Some arrows are advertised with a straightness of .006!!!! Personally, I wouldn’t touch these with a 10ft pole. If you are going to scrimp monetarily on any item of equipment it MUST NOT be your arrows!!!!! Buy a cheaper bow and spend the extra cash on the best arrows available. I think that the Easton ACC is a great shaft.

      2. all nocks are on exactly the same rotation and perfectly straight

      3. that your field point arrows are leaving the bow without deflecting off of the rest If your fletching or the back end of the shaft is touching the rest as it leaves, you have to fix this problem first. You are wasting time doing anything else.

Coat the fletch, nock, and the last 12 inches of the arrow with spray foot powder. Thsi will leave a fine white coat of powder on the surfaces. Shoot an arrow into a bale (not thru paper). Carefully remove the arrow so not to touch any of the area that is coated with the powder. Inspect for any areas that has the powder removed. This will tell you if there is any rest and/or cable/riser contact. You must fix this before going any further!!

      I prefer as much helical as possible and at least a 3 inch fletch to provide maximum spin to the arrow for ultimate accuracy. However, this increases the chance for fletch/shaft interference with the arrow rest. Next make sure the broadhead is on absolutely straight with the shaft. Do the spin test on the palm of your hand. If the arrow appears to wobble where the shaft and BH meet, the BH is not straight. Heat the insert and re-align. Unfortunately, most carbon shafts are assembled using an epoxy/super glue type adhesive and heating the point to a temperature that would allow realignment will damage the carbon shaft. An alternative is to buy some small ‘wavy” washers and install them between the BH and the insert. This helps sometimes but not always. I can guarantee that if the BH “wobbles during the spin test, it will not shoot with acceptable accuracy

      Rest Position:

The arrow rest should be aligned vertically so that the arrow is in the center of the rest attachment (plunger) hole. Horizontal placement has a lot of debate. My opinion is that very few, if any, compound bows have the string in the physical center of the bow. Most are offset to the left of center for right hand shooters. Whatever distance this happens to be is the distance that the rest should be offset to the left. Matthews and PSE have this dimension marked on the grip or riser on some models of bows. Why all manufacturers don’t do this is beyond understanding.

      One reason to move the rest from the proper/perfect position is in the case of excessive hand torque. Torque is usually caused by gripping (“strangling”) the riser, grabbing the bow at the moment of the shot or having the bow hand too deep. (outside the “lifeline” in the hand).

      Terry continues on providing 19 pages of tips. Click Bowhunting Tips, Tricks & Techniques by Terry Whitford 2/15/08 to read all of his tips.

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